To Ride Head First
It was my RDO last Friday and as always I try to make the most of this chance to surf end week instead of usual Sat/Sunday shit fight with the rest of those weekend warriors/holiday makers! The swell was only small but had some east in it , so for a change I threw 3 of my favorite timber paipos in the back of my van and took off to one of my local breaks which I knew would pick this swell up to the max.
As I walked up to the lookout a nice little clean set blew thru , so a quick run back to the van to suit up , grab all 3 sticks and bolt down to the beach.
First board off the rank was the little Tom Wegener model, constructed with a foam core, paulownia skin and cork rails &vacuum bagged , it has miles of concave and reverse curve running from the tail to its nose, proberly my favorite ride out of the batch of paipos
Next is the ' spoon' plywood model from Owen Surfcraft , super flat and heavy, has the least buoyancy of the 3 but trims beautifully with zero rocker
Last but not least, the Surfing Green model , way smaller than the other two , with a total paulownia construction, this little baby has all the curves and concaves going on , very much a side cut and surprisingly big enough for me to stretch out on.
So after a couple of hours it was time to re fuel ( they even made me a lifes a beach coffee) and go for another surf...
Round Two
Score! nobody out or around, only small but its my roster day!!
Surf Empire
Belly Boards
Michael Suggas
shaper
work in progress, stay tuned
Blood Oranges
Home Grown
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