Friday, 22 July 2011

Two Steps

It had been pissing down rain for the past four days, and with that mother nature had whipped to ocean into a frothing mess, pulsing out a large but messy swell . By the middle of the week the Bay had started to come to life, with the Outer Bombie starting to break, Sailors and Moona were showing potential and by Thursday the ocean had kicked into overdrive and so had the crowd, but the call was Friday to be the big day, so with giving the past few days a miss , I was keen to hit it real early Friday morning and going by the swell forcast one of my favorite waves was going to be cranking, so with the rain still pouring down I checked out Moona around 630 in the morning...well not massive like the forcast predicted, 2 guys already out in wind blown 3ft slop, 4 guys checking it out, it was going to be a crowded day for sure. I knew Sailors would be already filling to the brim with keen surfers all expecting this massive Bay swell, so we decided to check out a wave that I have not ridden in alot years....Two Steps.

Now you may ask why I call this break 'two steps' and the simple answer is when its doing its thing, it only takes 'two steps' to walk off the reef and into the line up...a fun little wave that bends and contorts over a reef that doubles as a boat ramp in normal flat times, so when Paul and I pulled around the corner and seen a wave run down the line, we were out there!
It wasn't classic boat ramp by no means, only a couple of feet, but with the incoming tide it had the potential of increasing in size, and with more and more guys pulling up, we decided to jump out and make the most of it before it turned into a real shitfight crowd wise...and we wern't dissapointed , a sucking take off section, with the added joy of dodging the day trippers in the water, that ran down past the reef to the beach. With the added bonus of  a 'walk of honour' back up the reef to the jump out spot and with every 'man and his dog' , local and non local alike, all deciding to join us, it was every man for himself!
The gloves were off and I was a good mood to set the toaster high, so when some young kid decided to jump out, or should i say step out on the inside of me, and with a smoking set bowling towards me, I looked over my shoulder and gave the youngster a freindly smile and proceeded to burn him better than a $2.00 toaster form the local Op shop. Yes as always 'karma' gave me a reminder that I was not playing fair and rolled me just as the curtain was throwing over my shoulder and the kid was giving stink eye from hell, what a crack I just laughed at him and paddled back out to the take off spot, where at least a few more locals were entering the line up.

It wasn't that bad really, the crowd sorted it self out quickly, and a pecking order became evident after old mate and fellow kneelo Barry bounced out in the line up, so with me and him, the two 'loonie' and loud kneelos holding the outside take off spot for ourselves, the crowd took the hint and parted when ever we taking off, very generous I might say and the mood lifted , but unfortunately the swell dropped as the tide filled in and with that we decided to call it quits and head in and take a few happy snaps.

Barrys little bazza below

There was another local kneelo out there as well who was happy till he nosed dived into the reef and near broke the nose off his board, but a quick trip back to his car to grab a spare and he was back out there, yep, they dont make them Flushpoints like they use to!

A happy Barry after getting nice and dry

Slats and Layback Dave came down for a look at the action

We were out of there by 10am, the carpark was turning into a circus with more and more surfers pulling up, so it was off the Harry Palms Cafe for a coffee and curry pie. After a delicious meal and a very long chin wag, I had to head into Nowra for a quote and cruised back in the afternoon to see if things had improved since the morning...the swell was dropping quickly but the was still a couple of kids out enjoying what was left.

Theres not too many secrets left now days, but the Southcast still has a few gems left up its sleave!
Enjoy while you can!

Robbie Slater kindly forwarded these pics from yestersdays

A bonus youtube clip from Ali Mills

Saturday, 9 July 2011


Each surfer finds his limitations on waves, knee riding is a way of stretching that limit, plunging back behind a jacking section that cowers those who peer over its edge and challenges those who are blind to danger. Dropping is either an airborne affair or weightless edge driving into a vertical wall of juice that hopefully holds one second longer, weight back on the heels, eyes transfixed, the knee surfer draws his line. If its a pure one, he will witness one of natures deepest secrets as it unfolds before, around and above him. The colour strewn motion mesmerizes and the secret has its way.

Below is a few pictures from the last couple of days.

Check out below a great video by Rob Slater.....water footage by my little GoPro camera.
Visit Rob's website