Tuesday, 30 July 2013
Its been over a month now that Swan Lake has opened up to the ocean and
apart from from giving us some killer banks down the beach it has also stripped the point of all its sand that has built up since it last open a few years ago , laying bare it’s ‘soul’ for all to see.
I went searching a couple of Sunday’s ago…no swell and a very low tide helped , and I was able to walk all the way out to the tip and see what was there to discover
Armed with just my trusty IPhone 5 as a camera of choice, I was amazed at what had been hidden under all that sand ..
The Life & Soul of the Reef
I started off exploring the rock pools
and then I saw what I thought was the one and only starfish
and as my eye’s adjusted to the colour change in the reef texture
I soon realized the whole reef was covered in these little beauties
so many different colours and textures
Even a undersized Abalone was still attached to the reef, have not seen a live abalone on the rocks since the 60’s , when as kids we use to walk across the sand spit at Minnamurra to the Island and just pull them off the rocks by the bag full!
Sea Urchins galore
which look pretty attached to the rock’s and not impaled in ones foot!
Thank you Swan Lake for the clean out!
Let’s go Surfing
Well I was flying solo last Sunday morning and with not expecting much, I was surprised to see the swell still at 2-3 ft with a touch more East in it. After looking at the Reef for over 20 minutes and giving the beach a quick once over for my shell collection...I was out there to get wet at least
The Reef below
and I couldn't be bothered driving anywhere else and decided to go out for a splash at the Reef , and with not a soul around I was able to pick a dozen bomb waves and soon was walking back up the steps…till I looked back down at the point ( coco pop’s) and saw a few nice right handers peel off and run down the side.
Well It didn't take much to twist my arm, and was soon down at the creek entrance in a flash ..much to the amusement of the local Pelicans as I tried to ‘walk on water’ and nearly landed face first in water as I was in such a hurry.
Pelican’s standing guard at the entrance
A small video that I shot while I was out there below.
Best viewed in HD.
I love surfing by myself, early morning being my favourite!
Sitting right out next to the tip of the Point and looking back at the beach , watching the odd surfer running along the sand down , not knowing or seeing me out there having the time of my life riding the small right handers and playing peek-a-boo with a large cunje covered rock
A small pod of dolphins swan thru and came in for a sneaky look at what I was doing…and every time I heard the ‘perf ‘ sound behind me, I knew it was the dolphin's coming in for a closer view.
I love my shell’s , especially the kind that you don't see very often , and so after having such a fun surf and finally stepping back onto the beach , what could top this morning off any better…taking just two steps and looking down to see a shell that you have been searching forever for…
Eureka, I found it
and yes, I have two others of the same variety , but different colours and size , with the other two found on the beach in front of the reef and a couple of years apart!!
Life does not get any better
I often get asked why I wear that ‘silly’ helmet with the gopro camera attached to the top ? Isn't your memory good enough?, I get told…….well I like think that I keep a Visual Diary of what I do and see and never care what other people think… lol….its hard enough for most people to come to terms with me riding a surf mat , so wearing the helmet cam is a real spinner!
Such is Life
Saturday, 27 July 2013
The video below is of some fun waves I was lucky enough to score out at Gilligans Island last week. The swell was a bit funky with a touch of east so it wasn’t the usual long running walls that I was accustom to getting but with just a handful of local crew out one being former pro surfer Pam Burridge , there was plenty of waves to share around with me having a blast on the new Krypto surf mat.
Pam still rips and always gets her fair share of good waves !
Hence the title of Queen of the Island
Thursday, 25 July 2013
From Krypt International has arrived….
I was lucky enough to receive the new mk4 from Mark Thomson before the official August release and after its maiden surf at Gilligans , I am very pleased with the new material and design that MT has put into this model.
The first thing I did notice was how much lighter it felt , the deck has been made with a new material which I found out to be very user friendly for wax….it sticks like sh#t to a nappy and after 2hrs of solid surfing the wax was still as good as when I first paddled out…
so no more having to apply sikaflex ‘hip-grip ‘ to the deck like the previous MT5’s
Super fast and with the rocker taken out compared to the previous model , this mat should get faster with age as the material starts to break in!
What more can I say but…Wunderbah!!!
$50 discount for pre orders, so don't miss out
Krypt MT5 Series IV pre orders
Available early August.
Friday, 19 July 2013
I like to beach comb
i like the sea urchins
and shells of all variety
formed by the wind
and the imprints from my sandals
I like the wax plants that grow in the sand dunes
an the cuttlefish bones
that are found littered on the beach
I like the Island
and to ride surf mats there
I don't like SUP’s
View below to know why…
King Neptune surfs here….AKA Paul Gleeson
Stu Wissing below enjoying the view
I love Paipo’s
Peter Berry….pictures courtesy of Neal Cameron
Neal mentioned to me on his last visit the Pete had made a few paipo’s apart from his Mountain Dew
CHECK THIS OUT
Yes , this surf mat has handles as well
A great read below and a bit more insight into the legend himself from
House of Bonzer