No Joke…it was just the 3 of us surfing Ozzie Pipe for over 3 hours before anyone else appeared. Thankfully I never look at at a surf forecast on the internet and just use my own local knowledge for swell prediction . The surf was far from pumping , but at 2 foot, clean and low tide, we must have caught a zillion barrels and was trading different surf craft amongst us to mix the rides up. I started off on my paipo, swapped for a hand plane , switched to a surf mat and rode a few on a kneeboard before finally taking the paipo back out before exhaustion set in and my legs were just cramping from kicking all morning.
Summercloud Bay , Wreck Bay , Black Rock or just Oz Pipe…a place with many names and such a delight to surf.
Paul Newman below giving my timber paipo run.
Pictures by Eric Bridges
I only rode a handful of waves with this Drift tri fin kneeboard and as Eric explained to me , it once belonged to my middle son Alex , so this board would have to be close to 20 years old…..Many Thanks to Eric for snapping a few pictures.
Paipo Fun Below
Plenty of barrel action in the video below
April Fool from adam williams on Vimeo.
Pictures below by me.
Video below by Paul “Flipper’ Newman
Lowriders... from Bulkheads Stuff on Vimeo.
Mat Man Eric Bridges
I love my timber Paipo and Duck Feet flippers
Bonza Fun Again
A Sunday to Far Away
With just a dozen odd surfers out and nobody surfing the point , it gave me a chance again to ride my Bonzer in some down the line waves. It could have been bigger, but at 3-4ft it was enough to satisfy my thirst for nice long walls. No tubes, but I even came in and gave my mat a run, and with that priceless look on some Brazilian surfers faces as they saw me pulling out my inflatable and blowing it up as I walk toward the shoreline …Gold
Running down from the Point
Sunday @ Shelly's from adam williams on Vimeo.
Everything goes great with Coca Cola….even mat riding
COCA COLA from adam williams on Vimeo.
Another near empty mid week day ( it helps when everywhere is pumping) down at my favorite mat riding spot Green Island. When I first looked at it from the lookout there must have been a dozen so surfers out and the swell looked a bit East , but lucky for me fellow mat rider Steve came walking up the steps and into the car park, frothing on how good it was out there, so by the time I hit the break nearly everyone came in for lunch, just leaving myself and couple others…..3 hours later and 2 very sore legs from kicking so much , I was standing on the beach as the next shift came running past me and into the water….YEW!
the view from the lookout!
Bonza MorningI actually paddled out at another point break for a few waves, decided it was no good and then drove down to Gilligans for a mat surf….the drive was worth it!
Bonza Morning from adam williams on Vimeo.
Well I was stuffed, my whole body was aching all over, but there was still swell and waves to be had so was back down there first light. The tide was low and the waves would have been way better around noon with the higher tide, but being a Friday and the word was out how good it was the day before, so a quick surf and back to work for me.
RAFTS from adam williams on Vimeo.