Wednesday, 22 April 2015

The Big and the Small



BIG-N-SMALL

Ocean Power

The NSW South Coast


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The Bogey Hole pictured above, Collis rights below. It was only 4ft in the morning , but by dark there was thumping 8 foot sets pouring onto the coastline.



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La La Bay


The Small

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Another South Coast Low gave us a Bay Swell, so with a predicted North wind  a call was made to check Callala Bay the next morning



Callala Bay Lefts


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Its been over 9 Years since I have surfed Callala , so even though it was not a large swell pouring in, this was chance to  ride our surf mat’s out there, and was joined by Brian Manahan and Justin Spittle for the early paddle out.



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As always we seem to get a Bay Swell right smack in the middle of school holidays, so there was already a few kids in the water when we paddled out in the dark. Brian rode his kneeboard and this was our first time surfing mats out on the famed lefthander, so with a thick early morning crew already out we soon settled into a pecking of scraping around on the inside for the little runners , letting  the bigger sets go to the guys riding boards.


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After a hour or so of sliding around on small waves , it was time to move onto another location with some more grunt, as I had a need for some speed, and need to surf a rail and some fins!



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PRETTY IN PINK


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SPLAT BODYBOARDS


Brian scored this 1980’s fibreglass bodyboard off EBay recently

take note of the leash plug on the bottom of the board


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Go Pro video from the morning



just trying to act my age from adam williams on Vimeo.


Shelly Point

THE BIG


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I FEEL THE NEED FOR SOME SPEED


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View from the Village


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How Big?

a good 6 foot plus


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By the time I walked out to there,  there was nobody in the water , but a dozen or so on the beach, so with a low tide and this size swell running , there is plenty of wash thru’s happening . I took the chance to jump off the back of point into a couple of larger runners , and with that I was soon joined by a couple surfers and within a hour and the incoming tide there was a least 20 surfers 


Big Closeouts


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Fun Peak


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A few Keg’s on the inside


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Bumped into Marcus on the way out, and another 20 guys walking in  as well!

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Tubular Vision

Some reedited vision from the April Fools Day Bonanza we scored



Tubular Vision from adam williams on Vimeo.

Black Rock

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The Phileas Project Pt 4.2 - US West Coast: Orange County

G-Mat Custom Surfmats

Sunday, 12 April 2015

Crazy Mat Men IV



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Easter Monday

2015

Beaut Sunrise – South Coast Style
Justin Spittle taking in the View

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After working most of the Easter long weekend , I was able to join the SCUMM crew for a slide on Easter Monday, catching up with Justin, Paul and Phil, with Eric choosing not drive down because of the Holiday traffic delays and mayhem ….he scored nice waves closer to home , but that's another story


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It was a killer sunrise, with plenty of colour and trauma in the sky…and  a nice little south swell running, with a touch of east thrown in, so there was a  few waves to choose from. With one surfer already out in the water  , and more to come ,  Paul mentioned that  there was a few runners out at Coco Pops.


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Bend and Stretch

Its a long kick out the back


As I approached the shoreline , there didn’t seem to be much happening off the Point , but with Paul’s assurance that there was waves, we all kicked out hoping for the best and at worst, we could still paddle back round the point and into Cove for a few waves.


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Eureka …..let there be Waves


Ready for Lift Off

Not big waves but with just the 4 of us on mats, there was plenty of wave sharing action happening , with the loose one slipping thru with just one rider on the wave.

Phil Harper below


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LOOK OUT FOR THE ‘ POP ‘


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Plenty of boils in the water


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Justin Spittle


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Plenty of laughs and fun times were enjoyed, with the highlights for me actually skidding over the rock on my mat and trying to body surf a wave whilst exiting my mat on the take-off…Stupid me thinking that the mat would blow back over the wave and be waiting there for me …ha…luckily Paul had rode the wave thru and rescue it, saving me a very long swim in!

3 Different Views



crazy mat men iv from adam williams on Vimeo.



Dapointis! from Bulkheads Stuff on Vimeo.





Breaking News

From  Terry Towelling


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Johnny Tofu and I have made the switch. Dafins and Kicks are amazing. They are lighter and have at least as much power, are more comfy.......and come in an amazing range of colours.Try a pair


Smooth Glider Johnny Tofu


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Johnny Tofu below showing how that ‘ wider foot pocket ‘ comes in handy for holding your wife's purse and tissues


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John with Splash the Wonder Hound


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Duck Feet Forever


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SCUMM


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NO Da Fins Here


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no Da Fins Here from adam williams on Vimeo.

Wayne’s New Rides

Bonza

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New from the Campbell Brothers
Retro Single Fin & Modern Five Fin

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Shoot the Moon

Inflatable Fun Huntington Beach

Chad Stickney

Wednesday, 8 April 2015

April Fool’s Day


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No Joke…it was just the 3 of us surfing Ozzie Pipe for over 3 hours before anyone else appeared. Thankfully I never look at at a surf forecast on the internet and just use my own local knowledge for swell prediction . The surf was far from pumping , but at 2 foot, clean and low tide, we must have caught a zillion barrels and was trading  different surf craft amongst us to mix the rides up. I started off on my paipo, swapped for a hand plane , switched to a surf mat and rode a few on a kneeboard before finally taking the paipo back out before exhaustion set in and my legs were just cramping from kicking all morning.



Summercloud Bay , Wreck Bay , Black Rock or just Oz Pipe…a place with many names and such a delight to surf.


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Paul Newman below giving my timber paipo run.

Pictures by Eric Bridges


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I only rode  a handful of waves with this Drift tri fin kneeboard and as Eric explained to me , it once belonged to my middle son Alex , so this  board would have to be close to 20 years old…..Many Thanks  to Eric for snapping a few pictures.


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Paipo Fun Below


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Plenty of barrel action in the video below



April Fool from adam williams on Vimeo.



Eric Bridges

Pictures below by me.

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Video below by Paul “Flipper’ Newman

LOWRIDERS



Lowriders... from Bulkheads Stuff on Vimeo.



Mat Man Eric Bridges


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I love my timber Paipo and Duck Feet flippers

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Bonza Fun Again

A Sunday to Far Away


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With just a dozen odd surfers out and nobody surfing the point , it gave me a chance again to ride my Bonzer in some down the line waves. It could have been bigger, but at 3-4ft it was enough to satisfy my thirst for nice long walls. No tubes, but I even came in and gave my mat a run, and with that priceless look on some  Brazilian surfers faces  as they saw me pulling out my inflatable and blowing it up as I walk toward the shoreline …Gold



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Running down from the Point


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Jungle Love




Sunday @ Shelly's from adam williams on Vimeo.



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Coca Cola


Everything goes great with Coca Cola….even mat riding



COCA COLA from adam williams on Vimeo.


GILLIGANS iSLAND


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Another near empty mid week day ( it helps when everywhere is pumping) down at my favorite mat riding spot Green Island.  When I first looked at it from the lookout there must have been a dozen so surfers out and the swell looked a bit East , but lucky for me fellow mat rider Steve came walking up the steps and into the car park, frothing on how good it was out there, so by the time I hit the break nearly everyone came in for lunch, just leaving myself and couple others…..3 hours later and 2 very sore legs from kicking so much , I was standing on the beach as the next shift came running past me and into the water….YEW!



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the view from the lookout!


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Bonza Morning

I actually paddled out at another point break for a few waves, decided it was no good and then drove down to Gilligans for a mat surf….the drive was worth it!



Bonza Morning from adam williams on Vimeo.

Next Morning


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Well I was stuffed, my whole body was aching all over, but there was still swell and waves to be had so was back down there first light. The tide was low and the waves would have been way better around noon with the higher tide, but being a Friday and the word was out how good it was the day before, so a quick surf  and back to work for me.



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Raft Riders



RAFTS from adam williams on Vimeo.