BEST WAVE OF MY LIFE

                      October Long Weekend 2018

Sometimes things just fall into place  , and this past long weekend just happen to be one of them ! It started the previous Monday when I walked into the office and asked the boss for Thursday off so that I could combine it with my RDO and the Long Weekend , giving myself 5 days off ! Thursday morning provided the goods as predicted, 2m of ESE swell and offshore winds all day , so hitting the carpark early, there was already a handful of surfers out, which is not too bad considering it was the middle of school holidays. I actually took the time to have a good look instead of just a peep and then racing off , so he is what I saw first thing...

I decided to take one of  my Lotus SS surf mats out,  its my favorite mat to surf in larger , down the line waves. It is slightly narrower , which I prefer , and more responsive on the fly , so with a lower tide and incoming , I paddled out to see just a few different faces, fathers and sons and none of the usual local crowd, but it was only 5.45 in the morning and most of the local crew were still enjoying their boiled eggs with finger toast, washed down with a nice cup of tea.

KNOCK ON WOOD from adam williams on Vimeo.

Anyways I was out the back and straight into sets in no time, flying with the most ultimate speed on very long, loopy walls , with most of my fellow surfers wondering who is the weirdo , riding a inflatable raft , till Dean paddled up to me and introduced himself. I have admired Dean's photography work for years, followed him on social media and we have mutual friends , but have never actually met or surf together, so I was stoked and he mentioned he had his mat back on the beach , so we planned to hook up with Neal later for a lunchtime marathon on mats.


                                                That LOOK of STOKE & FROTH

                                                              BUTTER FINGERS

Some more on Dean's work....... , Cloudface Photography

                                              ROUND 2

After a feed and caffeine injection with Neal, we paddled out for round two and this time I took out my Standard SS, my old faithful , all round favorite mat. Longer , wider and more volume , its a toss up between it and the Omni as a all round utility mat, big or small, slop or offshore , its been a crowd favorite for a while. I bumped into Dean straight off after paddling out, he was not hard to find as the Warp mat that he was riding is a fairly bright ' burnt orange ' colour and he had a smile from ear to ear. He was totally frothing and riding his mat well, considering he has only ridden one a dozen times, he was flying and doing crossovers with ease, but being a true all round waterman , its not hard to understand why he took to riding mats so well.

View the video below to check out the froth meter hit extreme 



BEST WAVE OF MY LIFE from adam williams on Vimeo.

                                        The Next Day 

Well I was truly tired from the previous days sessions , with close to a combine 6 hour session on mats , my calf's were killing me , like most other body parts , so I was in no mood for a 15 minute paddle out, so going right and riding my knees was a good option. Our favorite Cove provided the goods as usual, only small but empty with a nice sucky bowl section to hoot thru , I was in kneelo pig heaven for over a hour before one other surfer  paddled out and by then my energy was already tapped and my body was crying out for a recharge of food and coffee.

SOFT TOYS R US 2 from adam williams on Vimeo.

It was a fantastic 2 days of waves, plenty of hoots , fun and froth to go around...enjoy!


                    Follow me to the Path of Enlightenment , and see what I saw!



Path to Elightenment from adam williams on Vimeo.

                           Well the Zoo had to start, it is SCHOOL HOLIDAYS


BOLLYWOOD ZOO1 from adam williams on Vimeo.