Welcome to my little corner of life on the NSW South Coast of Australia....Surfing, Work and Family, and one beautiful stretch of coastline to share it in!
Paul Newman, Phil Harper, Eric Bridges & Neal Cameron
SCUMM
Our great Friend , Mate & Mentor , has not been well since before Xmas and has been battling cancer, which has kept him inside and away from the Ocean, that he loves. We have had him out in some smaller waves the past few month's ,but with only one functioning eye left, we/he has to be selective in what and where he surf's, so when I asked him if he wanted to join us for a trip down the coast , knowing it was going to be on the large size, he said 'yes please' !! so I picked him up from his house and drove down the coast to join the rest of the SCUMM crew, much to the delight of the boys , and we were not disappointed when we arrived!!
SCORE!
Empty , 4ft solid ( with slightly bigger set's) and a mild cross shore wind...we are out there!!
Eric decided it was too big and didn't have the strength to paddle and duck dive, but he was happy to sit on the rocks and take the view in & take some pics of Neal , Phil , Paul and my self , such the Legend that Mat Man is!
Dolphin's , Beautiful Wave's and just the 4 of us in the water for close to 3 hour's. I was riding my 5 Star General , Neal with his Four Gear Flyer Tracker RT , Paul with his Krypto and my Softech, while Phil stayed on his knee's riding his Softech Hybrid ....a morning that we will ever forget!
Not only did Eric shoot some land shot's , but he also took some video, not bad for a person with only one eye and just a cheap digital camera to record with!
After well got out, there was still nice waves running thru , in fact it was cleaning up more, but the bigger sets were not as consistent as before , I stood on the rocks for a few moments after everyone and left , just me and the bird's and the Ocean!!
I finally past one other surfer on the track back to the car, he had a grin on his face and must have thought he won the lottery when he saw the empty waves peeling thru...'its all your's ' and kept on walking up the hill. We went and had some food & coffee and came back a hour later...the wind had dropped, the swell had gone slightly funky and there must had been a dozen guys out....such is Life eh?/
